Une Table au Sud
In Alexander Lobrano’s new column, Eurofile, the author of “Hungry for Paris” writes about the best tables (and beds) on the continent.
Coming on strong as one of the hippest cities on the Mediterranean after years of being unfairly malfamé, Marseille — France’s second-largest city — is also rapidly emerging as one of the best places to eat in Gaul.
I’ve known and loved this endearing mutt of a town for more than 20 years, but could scarcely believe my eyes — or my palate — on my most recent visit. To be sure, there have always been good places to eat here, but what’s changed everything is an influx of talented and ambitious young chefs who are catering to a swelling cast of affluent, food-mad young professionals. So think bistronomie, or young contemporary French bistro cooking, but with a delicious Mediterranean accent.